Test-fit the filler strip and adjust as necessary. Sand and finish the wood strip to match the base cabinet. Attach the strip to the cabinet with screws driven through the inside edge of the cabinet face frame and into the edge of the filler strip. If the strip is thin material, glue it in place with a small amount of epoxy rather than using screws. Some vanity kits come with filler strips made of the same material as the cabinet.
If yours didn't, you'll need to buy wood that matches the cabinet's facing and finish it to match. Although this step is sometimes omitted, it is best to anchor the side of the vanity cabinet to the sidewall, as well as securing the cabinet to the back wall. Because there is a gap between the side of the cabinet and the wall to allow for the vanity countertop, you'll need to add blocks to the gap for support before driving screws. Place two wood shims between the wood spacer blocks and the wall.
Drive a drywall screw through the cabinet side and into the wall at a stud location, making sure the screw is long enough to extend at least 1 inch into the stud. This will draw the side of the cabinet snug against your spacing blocks and shims. If the sink is separate from the countertop rather than an integral piece, attach it to the countertop before installing the countertop on the vanity.
Install the faucet and drain fittings, following the manufacturer's directions. Place a small amount of construction adhesive onto the top corners of the cabinet. Some vanity kits come with brackets that screw to the bottom of the countertop from beneath the sink.
Use these in addition to the construction adhesive if they were included. Connect the water supply lines to the faucet, and connect the sink drain to the drain trap and the branch drain, following the manufacturer's instructions.
If your vanity came with a separate backsplash, apply a bead of construction adhesive in a serpentine pattern to the back of the backsplash and press it firmly into place against the wall. Apply a bead of silicone caulk where the countertop meets the wall.
If there is a backsplash, caulk along all joints where the backsplash meets the wall and where it meets the countertop. Let the caulk cure for 24 hours before using the vanity. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content.
Create a personalised content profile. Measure ad performance. Select basic ads. Create a personalised ads profile. Select personalised ads. Apply market research to generate audience insights. Measure content performance. Develop and improve products. List of Partners vendors. Project Overview. Tip When replacing your bathroom vanity, it's also a good idea to check the plumbing supply lines, p-trap, and other piping that connect to the sink. Featured Video. Materials Vanity with countertop and sink Wood shims 2-inch drywall screws Filler strip as needed Wood finish materials as needed Wood blocking Silicone caulk Faucet Water supply tubes Sink drain assembly.
Locate the Wall Studs Use an electronic stud finder to locate at least one wall stud on the wall behind the vanity location. Connective clips are often included with new sinks to help anchor the units into place, in addition to the sealing caulk. The design of this varies, and will depend on the type of sink and the design, but they usually act like a lever to hold the sink in place. Follow the instructions included with the new sink and defer to the manufacturer's guidelines.
Install the faucet. New faucets usually screw onto the faucet assembly in a clockwise direction. Some faucets will have a rubber gasket around the base, and screw on easily, while others will recommend using silicone sealant to secure to the sink or counter.
You can anchor the faucet by reaching up underneath and using lock nuts that are included with the installation kit. Make sure the space for the faucet matches the location of the sink, using the template to measure before you install anything. Install the tailpiece and drain kit. Drop the tailpiece through the sink and screw on the tailpiece nut from underneath.
Some sinks come with gaskets that go between sink and tailpiece. If it doesn't, use non-hardening plumbers' putty or silicone to create the seal. Install the gasket, the included cardboard washer, and the locknut to secure the tailpiece. Part 3. Make sure the water lines match the new fixture. If you put two pipe threads together, splice them with teflon tape. Connect the water supply lines. Water supply lines should screw into place with the corresponding joints on the new faucet.
The specific size of the connectors should be included in the instructions for the specific faucet that you're installing. Lines also need to be long enough so you won't put stress on the joints. Better to have extra long lines and have them loop. No hard bends or kinks. Make them hand tight, and somewhere around a quarter to half turn with a wrench.
Usually the "female" connection piece on both ends will always have rubber gaskets, so you don't need teflon tape. Connect the pop-up. The pop-up is the device that allows you to open and close the sink drain, usually made of a simple metal rod with ball attached to it.
Drop stopped into sink from top, slide short end of rod into the opening on the tailpiece, making sure that the opening for the ball is facing toward the lever for the pop-up. Install as per the instructions. Sometimes you need washers and sometimes you don't.
Slide nut to trap the ball in the tailpiece. Tighten so there's no wiggle, but not so tight that it's difficult to raise and lower. Attach thumbscrew to pop-up lever rod while sliding the rod from the ball so they can attach and allow you to screw together. Seal your connections with silicone caulk. Finish with silicon around the top of the sink, anywhere that the basin of the sink meets the wall, filling any gaps with a thin bead of caulk.
Let the caulk dry for about 24 hours before turning on the water and going back over your work to check for leaks. Turn on the water and check for leaks. There's no way to know if something is going to leak until you turn the water on. If you have small leaks from the rubber connections, try tightening more. The drain itself will also sometimes leak, which can be caused by over-tightening and straining the seal created by the connector gaskets.
If that's leaking, don't go past hand tight. Try a new washer instead. It's also a good idea to check the gasket that goes under the tailpiece. Try tightening the nut down more or try different washer or silicone. Does the sink need to be connected to the vent in the wall? If so, how is that done? The tailpiece should be connected to the P-trap, which is connected to your drainage system. That will create the connection to the venting in the wall.
Not Helpful 14 Helpful 6. These are for the sink's overflow. Not every sink has an overflow anymore, and most that do no longer plumb it in this fashion. Not Helpful 20 Helpful 8. No, not that I've ever seen.
Most don't even have a manufacturer or model either. Not Helpful 13 Helpful 5. When I turn on the water in the sink or flush the toilet in my master bath, I have a leak down in the basement.
Do I need a new wax seal, and is the water from the sink on the same pipe? No, that's nothing to do with the toilet's wax seal, since the sink is causing the same result. You have a broken drain line or one of its fittings, shared by the toilet and sink.
A wall and or ceiling below needs to be opened in order to find and permanently fix the break. Not Helpful 11 Helpful 4. In that case, you would need to either call a plumber or get new valves at your local home improvement store to install yourself.
Not Helpful 10 Helpful 2. I don't want to install the pop-up that comes with the faucet set I'm about to install. Is there something I should do? If using the same pipe, cap it off, and use a stopper in your sink.
You can also use a new straight piece of pipe, but always check for leaks. Not Helpful 4 Helpful 1. If a spray nozzle hose that has a snap on connection comes apart, how does it go back together? Typically, you pull the collar on the hose end away from the end and release it once the nozzle's snap adapter is fully seated into the hose end.
It may not have been installed correctly, and if someone just shoved the nozzle into the snap connector, then that's likely why it came off to begin with. You pull the collar back again to remove the nozzle. Not Helpful 10 Helpful 1. Keep it anyway. They're good when you're away on long trips or vacations and can be used to keep the water in the sink's trap from evaporating. You don't come home to a place that smells like a sewer, nor one that's full of methane and ready to explode.
This stuff has happened! Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. By using this service, some information may be shared with YouTube. Check the new sink periodically for leaks. If you find any leaks, check any areas that you tightened during installation to ensure that they are not loose. Helpful 9 Not Helpful 5. You may have to adjust the seals within the first few weeks of use.
This is a normal occurrence. Helpful 3 Not Helpful 3. Do not over-tighten the water supply valves. Doing so may strip the knobs or break them off.
Don't splice compression threads with teflon tape. Don't use teflon tape if pipes have rubber in them. Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0.
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