Ski doo rev suspension setup




















In order to post comments, please make sure JavaScript and Cookies are enabled, and reload the page. Click here for instructions on how to enable JavaScript in your browser. Ski-Doo is launching a program to support grassroots organizations Riding the Wave Here we are, twenty years later Add a comment.

No comments so far. Be first to leave comment below. Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Get the SnowTech E-Newsletter. Bare in mind that the calibration is setup to perform with the mindset that the rider will be operating the sled with both skis on the snow and sharing the load of the sled.

The rear suspension is also somewhat soft and calibrated to soak up the bumps for average riders which it does very well. Combined with the T-motion and flex edge track offered on the Ski Doo Summit Gen 4 rev, this sled is very easy to roll up and ride on edge for traversing hill sides even with improper rider form. As I describe my preferred suspension setup the reader must understand that this setup may not be desirable for all riders and that my setup is specifically configured to conform to the technique which I teach and is geared toward more aggressive riders.

When setup correctly this suspension will give the rider a more positive feel for how the ski and track are engaged in the snow. It will improve hillside operation helping to prevent washout when the sled wants to turn up hill while traversing a hillside.

It will better prevent over transfer, but allow the track to stay engaged in the snow providing better traction. And I will help to prevent A-arm damage due to not enough suspension capacity while riding on edge or on one ski.

With the ski suspension I prefer a firm but not too stiff ride. I like the chassis to remain flat while cornering and while on edge I like that one ski will carry the whole weight of the sled without being too far into the stroke of the shock. I accomplish this using a regressive rate coil over spring package.

Then at the end of the stroke the spring rate rapidly increases preventing bottom out. All of this is accomplished using two springs, the first spring is locked out at initial compression preload causing only the second spring to be active. Part way into the stroke both springs become active reducing spring rate. This allows the suspension to continue to collapse without getting over stiff. In other words the suspension stays free. If you do not have that, adjust your rear torsion blocks to get the desired results.

A rear suspension torsion spring or fts spring adjustment can affect the front ski spring sag measurements. Compression clickers will be located at the body end of the shock or the bottle attached via a hose to the shock , it is controlling the flow of oil displaced by the shaft as it enters the body when the suspension is compressed.

Low speed compression is called this because it refers to the speed of the shock shaft NOT the actual speed of the sled. So a long gradual bump or when you sit on the machine or cycle the shock on the bench by hand is low speed. This is more for initial ride comfort or plushness. It will increase the firmness of the shock and will cause the shock to become softer. The low speed is Usually the inner knob or flat head adjuster on the compression adjustment.

High speed compression has only started to become more popular in recent years on consumer sleds but this refers to a large fast hit like a square edge bump that will casue the shaft to enter the body fast. Compression is used to keep the machine from bottoming out during the travel of shock. If you keep finding the bottom of the suspension during a hard ride you need to add more compression or firm the ride up.

Rebound clickers are located on the shaft end of the shock on the eyelet itself and is usually a red knob or flat head style adjuster. The rebound will affect the compression circuit of the shock because it is using a rod through the center of the shock to control the bleed circuit. This sounds odd but while riding it can be difficult to tell if the suspension is to firm or to soft. Sometime you can get the feeling the shocks are to firm, when in fact your riding so far down in the stroke of the shock your not using any travel causing it to feel firm and its actually to soft or the springs are not properly adjusted.

TIP: you can use very small zip ties around the shaft, while riding you can see if you are using all of your available travel or how much travel your using. This is usually the number 1 issue I see with machines.

Because you cannot physically see if a shock has been serviced sellers use this as a selling feature that a lot of times was never performed. Also a lot of beginner shock builders are not aware certain shocks take certain weight shock oils, and a shock that might take a 5 weight oil in Amsoil might take a 10 weight oil in Belray oil.

Shock oil viscosity Weight is not consistent across brands of oil so a lack of compression can be caused by wrong oil or if the oil is too heavy for the valving this can cause excessive heat and cavitation as well as a lot of ride quality issues.

I hope this will answer some questions and or get you on the right track for getting the most out of your sleds suspension.



0コメント

  • 1000 / 1000